Lindenwald estate of Martin Van Buren at 1013 Old Post Road
During the beginning of the Halloween season, I decided to explore the Hudson River Valley mansions while the foliage was out. I had never been as high up as Kinderhook, NY before and I wanted to visit the Martin Van Buren National Historic Site. This was the estate Lindenwald-Martin Van Buren home.
The tour is really informative and discusses our eighth President’s life in Upstate New York. I had not released that he was not born a wealthy man. He was a barkeeper’s son to Abraham Van Buren and his wife, Maria Hoes. His mother had been married before, so he had three half siblings and four other siblings growing up.
The Lindenwald Estate
He had worked his way through Law School and joined the local political scene of Upstate New York. From the what the tour guide told us; he was a self-made man. He had won the first election but not reelection. His further attempts at Presidency were not successful so after his time in Washington DC, he retired to his home in Kinderhook, NY and remained here until he died in 1862.
President Van Buren’s son’s and daughter in law’s bedroom. Abigal Van Buren’s portrait sits prominently in the bedroom.
When we took the tour, the tour guide said that the house had many other owners after the President’s death and that was the reason why there was not much left in the house. There is period furniture from the time he lived here but not from the President himself. There are a few pieces from the family that were donated later. They even replaced the wallpaper in the dining room that was from the original French company that manufactured it (it seems that they have records going back almost 400 years).
The original Dining Room wallpaper
The grounds are beautiful with the golden and orange leaves on the trees and what is left of the crops in the back fields. There is also the graves of Peter Van Ness and his wife, the original owners of the house.
Lindenwald’s Dining Room
The house is not far from downtown Kinderhook so take time to visit the town and the historic sites of the President. There is a lot to see.
Downtown Kinderhook, NY
History of the Martin Van Buren Home & of President Van Buren:
Kinderhook is most noteworthy for its native son. Martin Van Buren, the eighth President of the United States. Van Buren was born here in 1782 and began his road to the White House as a teenager campaigning for Thomas Jefferson in 1800. Van Buren held many positions in New York State government before becoming a United States senator. in 1821. He was elected President of the United States in 1837 after serving as Secretary of State (1829) and vice-president (1833-1837) in Andrew Jackson’s administration. Van Buren was one of only two men to serve as Vice-President, Secretary of State and President. The other was Thomas Jefferson.
President Van Buren’s office at Lindenwald
Van Buren was the first President to be born as an American citizen. Previous Presidents were born prior to the American Revolution. President Van Buren was an accomplished politician, but his Presidency was characterized by the economic hardship of the time-the Panic of 1837.
The Guest Bedroom
This banking crisis occurred only five weeks into Van Buren’s Presidency and tarnished his administration. Van Buren ran for reelection in 1844 and seemed to have a advantage for the nomination. However, his opposition to the annexation of Texas contributed to his defeat at the Democratic convention. The nomination eventually went to James Polk. As the question of extending slavery into the territory captured in the Mexican War became heightened, Van Buren broke with his party and ran for the Presidency as a candidate of the Free Soil Party in 1848. Following the campaign of 1848, Van Buren returned to his farm, Lindenwald, where he remained until his death in 1862 from bronchial asthma and heart failure at age seventy-nine.
(Lindenwald-Van Buren Home pamphlet)
Lindenwald House:
The house was built in 1797. The knocker on the old front door of this famous mansion bears the date 1797. This however refers to the building of the small and much less imposing building, which was the beginning of this Mansion and was erected by Peter Van Ness. There was still an earlier house on the place when Peter Van Ness bought it about 1780. The house of 1797 was greatly improved by Judge Van Ness, a son and still more improved and enlarged by Mr. Van Buren on his return from Washington when he named it ‘Lindenwald’.
The Lindenwald Parlor for the family
Many of the most distinguished men of the period of the Van Ness and Van Buren families entertained here, among whom were Henry Clay, Washington Irving and Samuel Tilden.
The Lindenwald Living Room
Lindenwald is situated about two miles south of Kinderhook on the Old Post Road from New York City to Albany and sits about 400 to 500 feet back from the road, surrounded by old fir and pine trees. Two separate driveways lead up to the house.
The Lindenwald Kitchen
The Lindenwald kitchen in preparation for dinner
The house is brick, painted yellow and seven windows wide. The main building had two stories and a large garret. Three chimneys rise above this main or front part of the house, two to the north and a wide one to the south. The middle of the front is pedimented and there is a dormer on each side of the gable, which in the bedroom story below has a large triple central window with a curved pedimental top and two windows on each side. The two windows on the south side are in the room where Van Buren died.
President Van Buren’s bedroom
Before the center of the main story is a small, covered portico with an easy flight of steps and balusters. To the left is the living room or double parlor to the right the sitting room and dining room.
The spiral staircase to the tower
The oblong house is four windows deep on the north side. A colonnade or arched porch separates it from a domestic building, mainly kitchen and laundry. This undoubtedly was the Peter Van Ness original home. The library was added in the rear of the south side by Mr. Van Buren and next to this he built a tower, like a donjon keep with an Italian summit, the openings few and slitted, the object, stateliness and the view.
The Breakfast Room
Beyond the front door is a fine straight hall. The four doors opening off of it are of early carpentry. At the rear, nearly concealed in the side of the hall under sort of an alcove is the stairway, wide and low and long stepped. The main feature of the hall, is the foreign wallpaper in large landscapes, representing hunters on horseback and with guns and dogs breaking into Rhenish vales, where milkmaids are surprised and invite flirtation, the human figures are nearly a foot high, the mountains and woods, rocks and streams, panoramic the colors dark and loud.
The wallpaper at Lindenwald
The servant’s Breakfast Room
After the death of President Van Buren the house was sold several times.
Another bedroom at Lindenwald
(Lindenwald-Wiki)
The Cemetery where the President and his family are buried a few blocks from the Downtown.
President Van Buren’s grave in the cemetery in Kinderhook, NY
Martin Van Buren’s parents gave who were moved here to be near the President.
Hannah Van Buren was moved here to be near her husband.
Hours: Open Thursday-Sunday: 11:00am-5:00pm (the last tour is at 4:00pm)/Open Monday Holidays from April 19th to October 28th. The mansion then closes to prepare for the holiday season. Closed on Thanksgiving and Easter. There are special programs from January to April so please see the website.
Admission: $8.00 for adults/$6.00 for groups and Seniors/Children under 12 are free. Special events have separate fees and can run from $8.00 to $10.00 and above.
I have been a Friend of the Mills Mansion for about five years and have attended many special events at the mansion including their Afternoon Tea & Lectures, the Annual Meeting and Talk, The Holiday Party and the Isadora Duncan Dance and Reception. Their events are a lot of fun and are very engaging. It also includes a tour of the mansion which is very interesting. Try to get on one of their theme tours.
The Friends of Mills Mansion Meeting on April 2019
Their Special Events:
I recently attended their Summer fundraiser “Sunset on the Terrace”, an evening of cocktails, appetizers and music. On a beautiful sunny evening, there is nothing like it. We were entertained by the Perry Beekman Trio with an assortment of jazz music while passed hot and cold appetizers were passed around the room. It is a relaxing night of light food and cocktails and wine while chatting with members as the sun sets on the mansion’s terrace. Now I know why the Mills loved this house so much.
Another event I have attended over the past few years has been their “Christmas Cocktail Party” that is held in the formal dining room which is decorated for a Victorian Christmas.
Mill’s Mansion at the holidays is spectacular
What is nice is that everyone is dressed in suits or tuxes for the evening and like its Summer counterpart, it is a evening of light appetizers both passed and on the tables, light desserts and an assortment of wines from a local vineyard.
The Mills Mansion Holiday Party in 2018
The “Winter Lectures & Teas” have gotten more interesting over the years. The tables are laden with tea sandwiches, scones and small cakes and the Staatsburg blend of tea. They are always refilling everything for you and I have seen some big eaters at the table. The lectures this year were on various subjects taking place during the Victorian era that included “Bicycling and the Women’s Movement”, “Masquerade Balls during the Season” and “Etiquette & Calling Cards during a Social Visit” by visiting lecturers from colleges or local historians.
I have been a Friend of the Mills Mansion now for about four years finding that I was going to a lot of their events it just made it easier to join and get priority on their special events which are enjoyable. The ‘Halloween Tea’ was one of them the opened the holiday season.
The slide show as we were about to begin the lecture
The table set for the Halloween Tea
The guests arriving for the Halloween Afternoon Tea
The friendly witches getting ready to greet guests
This event was a tea and lecture of how the Victorians recreated Halloween from a dark more countryside evening wrapped in mystery to an engaging urban event with costumes, specialty foods and traditional events like apple bobbing that guests then made their own. Local Historian Carol Kohan discussed how the event went from a dark rural event to fun and engaging holiday.
The celebration was spooky and fun
From the old traditions to new ones
The Victorian’s made everything elaborate and overdone and the Halloween celebrations were ‘taken up a notch’ with elaborate costumes, parties, bonfires and desserts and candies that were to be served. There were special invitations and cards that were to sent and rules of etiquette.
The Ghosts and Ghouls of the holidays
Following the Civil War and at a time when disease was not understood the way it is now, there was an interest in spiritualism and seances were in vague as people want to reach out to their loved ones. So having a medium at a party was part of the activity. The Victorians knew how to transform a holiday.
The Menu for the afternoon
Our tables numbers on the table
During the discussion, we enjoyed an afternoon tea of the specialty Staatsburg Tea blend, a variety of finger sandwiches, pumpkin and cranberry scones and many types of pastries including mini pumpkin cheesecakes, tiny devil’s food cupcakes and assorted sweet cookies. The caterer always does a nice job with the food and service here.
The food at these function are excellent and plentiful. These were the current and raison scones
The Assorted delicious Tea Sandwiches
Sweets and cakes Afternoon tea here is wonderful
The estate in the Fall of 2024
The estate during the Fall of 2024
The last lecture I went to before things shut down in February 2020 was on “Masquerade Balls of the Gilded Age” which was very interesting. The enormous amount of money that was spent on a one night affair is almost mind boggling. The Vanderbilt Ball alone cost almost three million dollars in today’s money.
These were not just social occasions but a change to show off your wealth and creativity. It was what money could buy back then before the coming of personal and income tax and the Great Depression. The speaker discussed the food and the music and the fact the home was filled with flowers out of season.
The Famous Vanderbilt Ball
She discussed how the balls were created during Roman times in Venice for the start of Carnival (Mardi Gras was the next week) and how they developed during the Renaissance. She then discussed how they played a role in High Society during the Gilded Age and they were considered a little risque at the time. It was a very interesting discussion. As usual, the tea and cakes were delicious and they did a nice job decorating the room.
Hostess Alva Vanderbilt at her famous Ball
The Masked Cocktail Party for Christmas 2022 fundraiser:
The mansion ready for a Christmas party
The Mills Mansion, Staatsburgh, was decked out for the holidays on the night of December 9th, 2022 for a private fundraiser to raise money to replace the curtains in the library on top of other repairs at the mansion. This sold out event was packed the whole evening and was attending by over a 100 people who spilled over into the library and foyer.
Entering the party through the decorated foyer lead to the festivities as it would have during the Gilded Age
The Christmas Tree in the foyer was amazing
There was an open bar with wines and spirits plus water and non-alcoholic choices, passed appetizers with items like gourmet cheese spreads, chicken on a skewer and Christmas cookies. The band was wonderful and played all sorts of contemporary hits as well as Christmas music.
Everyone dressed for the Mills Mansion Ball-The Masquerade Cocktail Party Fundraiser December 9th, 2022
The three main rooms on the top floor were decorated to the hilt for the party
The main dining room was decorated with the theme of masks
People were in a festive mood
The Dining Room table was the focal point of the room
People gathered all over the Dining Room for the event
There was an air of mystery in the Dining Room with everyone wearing masks
The lead singer of the band had the most beautiful 1920’s star outfit
People enjoying themselves in the Dining Room
The Dining Room was packed at the height of the evening
The Band was excellent
The mask decorations were amazing
The party continued in the Library which was also decorated for the holidays
The Library Christmas tree was ablaze the evening of the party
I was only at the party for about an hour but I had a really nice time and I needed it. I had to get my mind off school and with the few drinks and lively conversation mixed with wonderful food, it was an enchanting evening. It was so nice to see people all dressed up again and very age appropriate to the time period. I felt like I had been carried back to the mid-1920’s.
I was also nice to tour the mansion in such a lively time of the day. People were having such a good time.
Visiting the Mansion at the Christmas Holidays:
Don’t miss visiting the Mills Mansion during the Christmas holidays. The house is decked out for a Victorian Christmas even though the Mills did not spend much time at the mansion during the holiday season preferring to live in their New York mansion during the holiday social season.
The holidays are a sumptuous display of the beauty of the Christmas season and a way of showcasing all the nooks and crannies of the house. It showed how Victorians may have enjoyed the holiday season.
The Mills Mansion foyer Christmas tree in December 2022
The foyer was adorned with flowers and garland as you entered the home
The Mills daughter and grandson
The family portrait gallery
The Reception Room between the Foyer and the Dining Room
The Dining Room:
Masks were the theme in December 2022
Masks adorned the Dining Room for Christmas
Still the house is decked out every year with different decorations and the formal dining room has just had the ceiling repaired and new velvet curtains put on the windows. The foyer steps of the older part of the mansion have been repaired with new curtains and rugs as well. Don’t miss seeing the tree in the foyer.
The volunteers are all on staff to answer any questions so feel free to ask about how the Mills entertained and lived in this era. The mansion is so beautifully decorated for the holidays.
The Mills Mansion dining room at Christmas in December 2022
The Dining Room was designed for a Masquerade Ball theme in December 2022
The Butler’s Pantry off the Dining Room for the holidays in December 2022
Still the house is decked out every year with different decorations and the formal dining room has just had the ceiling repaired and new velvet curtains put on the windows. The foyer steps of the older part of the mansion have been repaired with new curtains and rugs as well.
The Library:
The Mills Mansion Library at Christmas in December 2022
The Christmas tree in the library is very elegant
Family portraits in the Library
Down the hall from the Dining Room and the Library are the bedrooms of the hosts of the house, Ruth and Ogden Mills. These elegant bedrooms shared a modern day bathroom.
Ruth’s Private Office:
Ruth conducted her business from her private office. Her portrait sits proudly in the room.
The Bedrooms and Personal Family Space:
Ogden Mills bedroom on the first floor
The modern bathroom at the Mills Mansion
Ruth Mills grand bedroom
The staircase was fully decorated for the holidays as well with garlands and trees
The landing of the staircase to the first floor
The decorated staircase
The mansion’s beautiful gift shop is located at the bottom of the stairs.
In 2020 and 2021: (During COVID)
With the COVID-19 pandemic and outbreak affecting cultural sites all over the United States, New York State has enacted Phase 4 of reopening with the exception of opening museums, restaurants and bars for business so they all have to take it “outside”. That Staatsburg site is no different as the inside of the mansion has remained closed.
That leads to new creativity and ideas of how to show off the mansion and it’s grounds true beauty. The State Park site has now created two different programs for the Summer months, the ‘Landscape Tour’ of the mansion’s former ice house, greenhouse, boat house and walking paths and the ‘Programs on the Portico’, lectures of the mansion’s past starting with a lecture of “Staatsburg’s Servants”.
In 2020, 2021 and 2024 The Landscape Tour:
The mansion in the summer of 2024
The Landscape tour of the property was very interesting as our group strolled through the grounds first to the site of the old ‘icehouse’ by the river, where ice was cut in the wintertime and used for the ‘ice boxes’ in the home which was those days ‘modern refrigeration’. We also visited the site of the ‘boat house’ where water sports by the river started the day and the yachts that used to flow up and down the Hudson River.
The back of the mansion was our first stop of the tour
The extensive back lawn overlooking the Hudson River
The views of the Hudson River on the tour
Views of the lawn by the Hudson River
The views through the trees hide all the buildings on the estate grounds
Taking the pathways to the river front
The pathway to the Ice House and Boat House
The walk by the Hudson River where the old Boat House was located
The Hudson River edge by path where ice was harvested
The woods by the Hudson River
The view of the Hudson River by the old Ice House
We next visited the site of the old Carriage Houses that are now in ruin in the back of the estate. These are overgrown and in need of repair but still show their beauty through these ruins.
The old stables are now ruins on the estate
The garages in ruin in the back of the estate
The site of the stables is now an overgrown woods but once lead to bridle paths around the estate.
Our next stop on the tour were the sites of the old greenhouses that used to supply flowers for the mansion and fruits and vegetables for the kitchen. They disappeared over fifty years ago during WWII when the materials were needed for the war effort. They were never rebuilt. The tour is about 90 minutes.
The site of the old greenhouses of the estate
We ended the tour on the back lawn of the estate, admiring the views of the house and of the river. The views of the lighthouses in the river were just spectacular.
The view of the lighthouse in the distance
The view of the full lawn at the Mills Mansion after the tour
The ‘Programs on the Portico’ lectures started with the theme “Staatsburg’s Servants” later in the afternoon. These 3:00pm lectures on the ‘front porch’ of the mansion are socially distanced and under cool shade.
The front portico of the mansion was used for the Lectures series during the COVID years
The lecture was on items that the servants would use when the family was ‘in residence’ in the warmer months and how they would be used day to day. Items like a hand-cranked ice cream maker and a scoop for desserts, a bottle closer for beverages, a rug cleaner and a meat press for meals were just some of the items displayed and discussed. It was explained how the house would go through a deep cleaning when the family was away and when they were ‘at home’ how the house would be cleaned around them.
The ‘Lectures on the Portico’ series:
On a recent “Lecture on the Portico”, the topic of the “Titanic” was discussed. It seems that Mr. And Mrs. Mills had tickets on the return voyage to Europe from New York. They lost many friends and family members like J.J. Astor on the sinking of the ship. Our lecturer talked about what you would wear, you would eat and how you would dine on the ship and all the protocols of behavior. Between the sinking of the ship and WWI this ended the “Gilded Age” and ushered in the “Jazz Age” after the war was over. All of the these lectures and tours are free.
Exploring the Village of Staatsburgh:
Another tour I was on recently was the “Exploring the Village of Staatsburgh” tour where a small group of us toured the Village of Staatsburgh where the mansion was located and learn about the history of the town. It was taken from the perspective of how the mansion was dependent on it and the town benefited from the Mills family and the people that worked there.
The ‘Walking Tour of Staatsburgh’ is a semi-circle tour of this old hamlet whose fate was changed by the development of the mansions in the late 19th Century, the advent of WWI and WWII and then the coming of the modern era with new highways and less industry which has now created the sleepy village the town has become. Times progress.
We met at the Staatsburgh Library which was a old church at one time.
The beautiful neighborhood gardens by the library.
We visit the homes of the people who lived there like the Head Housekeeper, the Estate Manager and Butler and the footman. It was interesting to see how these people lived when they were not working.
The homes in Staatsburgh were beautifully decorated for the holidays
We learned how the town was created, how the businesses like the railroad and the ice manufacturing businesses were developed and how they grew. We learned a how the town was much more developed before WWII and the effects of the development of Route 9 bypassing the town changed it.
The Stained-glass windows at St. Margaret’s Church were dedicated to members of the Livingston family.
The Stained glass windows at St. Margaret’s Church
The Stained glass windows at St. Margaret’s Church
The back stained glass windows
St, Margaret’s at Christmas time in 2022
The start of the tour after leaving St. Margaret’s Church
We toured through the neighborhood, admiring residents gardens and having discussions on the older homes and buildings in the neighborhood and their significance with the Mills Mansion. A lot of the servants lived in town and built their homes here.
The stone gardens and colorful flowers in the neighborhood
The neighborhood gardens
The green lawns and the golf course in the distance
The gardens of the village
The gardens at the beginning of the tour
A former garage for the parish and former firehouse storage
The view from the top of the road
The fields in Staatsburgh
The former Mills Gardener Home in Staatsburgh
The Telephone Company house and the Handmaid’s home
One of the beautiful Victorian homes in Staatsburgh
The Bath House
The Spite House: the house to stop the road from going through the neighborhood. No one really knew the story of why this happened
The Spite House up close
The Mill’s Mansion Head Housekeeper’s House
The Housekeeper’s Barn with symbol
The Catholic Church in Staatsburgh
The local doctor’s house
The Plan House which were made by premade plans from companies
The River & Post Restaurant was originally a hotel for the Town of Staatsburgh and where Mrs. Mills French chefs stayed when they were working in the mansion
We then entered what was once a thriving business district for the town. Since the railroads closed, Route 9 bypassed the town and industry slowed in this hamlet, this area has become more residential and quiet.
The former pub that is now a residential home. This used to cater to people getting off the train
The house across from the old train station and their beautiful gardens
The houses magnificent gardens in full bloom
The old Methodist Church ‘downtown’
When we were on the tour, we saw how the town progressed from being dependent on the mansions and estates to how businesses like ice harvesting became prominent in the area up until the 1950’s. Our last stop was the old Hughes Department store in the old downtown area which is now a sail store for boating.
The former Hughes Department Store which is at the end of the tour.
The old Hughes Family home right down the road from their store.
We finished the tour in front of the old Hughes family mansion which faces the old downtown. Obviously Mr. Hughes built his home here to make a statement and be able to walk to work.
Back to the starting point at St. Margaret’s Church
The Horse and Dog Fountain that was dedicated to a member of the community that is now used as a planter
The historic state markers on the Albany Post Road were saved by Franklin Delano Roosevelt and were used for mileage and postage along the old highway during Victorian times.
The tour is about an hour and on a sunny I highly recommend it.
Special Members Night with the duo “Acute Inflections”:
As a member, we also had a recent concert on the portico to hear the duo “Acute Inflections” perform on the lawn. We all stayed socially distanced on the lawn but still the concert was nice, and this is what being a member of the Friends group is all about. These small events make a big difference.
The duo “Acute Reflections” performed that day
“Acute Reflections” performing
The “Estates of Staatsburgh Tour”:
Another recent tour I took at the Mills Mansion was the “Estates of Staatsburgh” tour where we visited the abandoned estates of the Lee and the Hoyt families. The Hoyt’s were distant relatives of Ruth Livingston, and their mansion still stands up on a buff in the woods overlooking the Hudson River. The family lived there until the 1960’s when the land and home were sold to the State of New York to create the park.
The abandoned Hoyt Estate will soon be a Visitors Center for the Park
The Lee Mansion burned down in the late 1950’s and all that is left of their estate if the old icehouse, which is the size of a regular home. Most of these old estates we came to find out were self-sufficient with agriculture and light manufacturing.
The Hoyt Mansion in its heyday
We got to see all the back trails to these old estates and the old driveways that once led to them. They have been abandoned since the 1960’s and have almost a spooky appearance of being lost in time. With the foliage in the background, it gave them a Halloween appearance. The tour was very interesting how the Gilded Age didn’t last too long when modern times came into play with income tax.
The filled in decorative pond is one of the things left of the Lee Estate.
The old Horse trough near St. Margaret’s Church
The “First Day Hike Tour” (COVID event):
To ring in 2021, the park had their “First Day Hike tour, ‘Staatsburgh in Winter”. There were two walking tours around the estate. One entitled “Staatsburgh in Winter” which discussed the wintertime fun at the turn of the century and the activities the Mills family enjoyed when they were at the estate in winter months. It seems that Ruth Mills was quite an accomplished figure skater. The family also owned an ice yacht, “The Beatrice” that they rode on the frozen river.
The Mills Mansion New Year’s Day Walking Tours-Me with the dark jacket and white mask
The second tour we took later that afternoon was “When Ice came from the river: Ice Harvesting in the Gilded Age”. We toured the river and the cove areas of the estate and discussed the ice block harvesting business that Mr. Mill’s had on the river. The family ice house could hold 500 tons of ice that was sold down in New York City. It was interesting to see how the process of clearing the snow and cutting the ice into blocks served as refrigeration for thousands of residents before refrigerators came into use.
Both tours our groups walked the back of the estate and the river front along the Hudson River. The tour guide had a long conversation on how the river was used during the Winter and that life continued in a productive way even after the holidays were over. It was a great way to spend the first day of the New Year. The park continues to amaze me in their adaption on running events during the COVID era.
In 2021, the mansion had been opened for the Christmas tours, but I was not able to attend. There was not that much time to run back and forth to the Hudson River Valley but in February 2022 the mansion finally resumed inside tours of the first floor of the mansion to the public.
The mansion looked like it had gone through a deep cleaning as everything looked shiny and new. It would have made Mrs. Mills proud. I was lucky to come up to Staatsburgh during the ‘Spring Thaw’ and it was 56 degrees out so I could enjoy the grounds as well. I learned some new things about how the Butler’s Pantry worked, and we were able to see the ice chests and china and silver that the family used for service. I swear I learn new things on each tour I take here.
The Annual Friends Meeting in April:
Our Annual Friends April Meeting in 2023 was a nice time. The Executive Board held the meeting in the Mills Dining Room with all the gilded fixtures as a backdrop. Our President of the Friends, Diane Tompkins gave the report of the successful year we had last year with record breaking attendance. I guess the the show “The Gilded Age” has been helping a lot. A lot of these Upstate mansions are getting a lot of attention now.
Friends President Diane Tompkins giving the report of the organization
It seems that the gift shop is really doing well and is also exceeding its numbers so things have been going well in post-COVID. Both the site director and the Friends Treasurer said we are exceeding our numbers on both attendance, membership and profits in the gift shop will be helping fund restoration projects in the mansion.
After the meeting, we had a light reception both in the Dining Room and on the terrace right off the main Dining Room. What a night! Sunny, warm and clear. It was such a beautiful evening with views of the Hudson River in the background and Spring buds popping all over the estate.
The reception on the terrace of the Mills Mansion
The grounds of the Mills Estate from the terrace
The Hudson River from the terrace
The sun setting over the Hudson River as the reception drew to a close
It was a really nice meeting and reception for the members. I can see that everyone was glad that after COVID that we were able to bounce back and start to exceed after such a rough time.
The “Evening Hours Tour of Decorated Staatsburgh”:
In 2023, the mansion was decorated to the hilt for the Christmas holiday season. Even though in real life, the family would have been in New York City for the Christmas and Winter season, the house was decorated with each room having its own decorations and trees.
According some of the grandchildren, the mansion was open for the Christmas holiday season and the family celebrated the holidays. I visited the mansion during the “Evening Hours” event where the mansion was open for a self-guided tour of the house and you could see the decorations at your own pace. There was music performed by the Hyde Park String Quartet in the formal Dining Room.
Staatsburgh (The Mills Mansion) when I arrived for the tour in 2023.
I toured the house with a group of visitors who had never seen the mansion before so there was a lot of interest in the history of the home and the people that lived there. Ever since the “Gilded Age” came out, the interest in these homes has increased and this evening event was sold out. Since I am a member, I was able to sneak into the first self-guided tour at 6:00pm.
The stairs to the second floor of the Mills Mansion.
The first stop was in the Library where it was reported that the family did have a Christmas tree for a Christmas celebration in the house.
The Christmas tree in the Library.
The Library
The painting of General Montgomery in the Library.
I moved onto the main Hallway and entrance to the mansion which was the original part of the house. This was until Ruth Livingston Mills expanded the house in the late 1800’s to its present size.
The main Foyer of the mansion in the front of the house with the Christmas tree.
The Christmas tree in the Main entrance of the mansion.
The fireplace in the foyer/hallway with a picture of Ruth Mill’s mother.
Ogden Mill’s portrait in the foyer.
Another display in the foyer leading to the Dining Room.
The front and back parlor of the old part of the mansion was used as a Living Room for Ladies to relax while their husbands stayed in the Dining Room to talk and smoke.
The Holding Room decorated for the holidays. This is where guests would wait to come in for dinner.
The Hyde Park Quartet was playing the night of the “Evening Hours” at the Mills Mansion.
The Dining Room table set for a feast.
The Tapestry on display on the wall.
The other angle of the Dining Room table.
The fireplace in the Dining Room.
The Dining Room could not work without the Kitchen and the Butler Pantry to supply the Dining Room with the things that it needs.
The Butler’s Pantry with all the holiday dishes prepared for the Dining Room.
The Dumbwaiter from the lower level kitchen.
The China and Silver for the Dining Room along with the desserts that would be served at the end of the holiday feast.
Once I left the Dining Room, we toured the back of the first floor where Ruth Mills had her office and both her and Ogden’s bedrooms.
Ruth’s office where she would run the estate. The dollhouse displayed in the office was very detailed. After that, I visited Ruth’s bedroom which was fit for a Queen. Ogden’s was right next door as was Victorian tradition that the couple had separate rooms. They had three children so there was no problem in that department.
Ruth’s bedroom
Ruth’s Bedroom
Once I visited the upstairs bedrooms, I visited the gift shop on my way out. The whole tour took about an hour to see all the decorations. The volunteers had done a wonderful job with the decorations of the house and it was nice to see them especially the Dining Room.
When I left in the evening, the house was ablaze with light and looked festive from the outside.
All of these can be seen on the organization’s website.
It was another great tour in 2023.
History of the Mansion:
(From the museum website)
In 1792, Morgan Lewis, the third Governor of New York, purchased an estate covering of about 334 acres and commissioned the construction of a colonial-style house on the site of the present mansion. In 1832, the first house was destroyed by fire, said to be the act of arson committed by disgruntled tenant farmers.
The current home, originally built in 1832 and greatly expanded in the 1890’s, the Mills Mansion (also known as Staatsburgh) is emblematic of the great country estates built in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to house America’s wealthiest families.
Staatsburgh is a New York State Historic Site located within the boutonnieres of Mills-Norrie State Park. It is an elegant example of the great estates built by America’s financial and industrial leaders during the Gilded Age.
A 25 room Greek Revival structure was built on the site in 1832 by Morgan Lewis and his wife, Gertrude Livingston, replacing an earlier house that had burned down. This second house was inherited by Ruth Livingston Mills, wife of noted financier and philanthropist Ogden Mills.
In 1895, Mr. and Mrs. Mills commissioned the prestigious New York City architectural firm of McKim, Mead and White to remodel and enlarge their Staatsburgh home. After the completion in 1896, the house was transformed into a Beaux-Arts mansion of 65 rooms and 14 bathrooms. Its exterior was embellished with balustrades, pilasters, floral swags and a massive portico. The rooms were furnished with elaborately carved and gilded furniture, fine oriental rugs, silk fabrics and a collection of art objects from Europe, ancient Greece and the Far East.
In 1938, the house and 192 acres were given to the State of New York by Gladys Mills Phipps, the daughter of Ruth and Ogden Mills. The estate is now operated by the New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation. In 1988, the Friends of Mills Mansion were organized to support the preservation and educational work at the site.
(Friends of the Mills Mansion Website)
Design:
The outside of the mansion features a massive portico, balustrades, pilasters and floral festoons. The central part of the mansion is layered into a basement, three floors and an attic. In the north and south wings, there is a sub basement, a basement and two floors. Ceilings in the older part of the building dating prior to the enlargement (the first floor of the central part) are about 14 feet high, whereas the ceilings of the later construction (first floor of the north and south wings) can be about 18 feet high. The interior of the building is decorated in French styles of the 17th and 18th century. However, some architectural elements of the previous home have been preserved in the process.
Preservation:
The Mills Mansion poses several challenges to preservation: On the outside, a gray sprayed concrete finish which was added later as a preservation measure need to be removed and replaced with a more suitable surface treatment. At the same time, the decorative cornice and many decorative elements need to be either restored or replaced. On the inside of the building, wall paint and furnishings fabrics are in need of replacement, marble and wooden surfaces need to be cleaned and the objects of the mansion’s collection need to be conserved.
*Note from the Blogger: this church is where every year the ‘Sinterklaas Committee’ has there annual fundraiser. The inside is beautifully decorated for the holidays and the food is wonderful. Check out the Sinterklaas Rhinebeck, NY website for more special events.
I recently attended the Annual “Cemetery Walk” of the Old Dutch Church in Kingston, NY, where they have actors playing famous people who are buried at the church.
The cemetery during the day
The historic plaques outside the entrance to the church
The historic plaque outside the entrance of the church
The Cemetery Walks during Halloween:
We went through the cemetery and one by one we met actors who played the roles of Sadie and Elsie Reher, whose family owned the bakery in the Kingston Roundout, Jenny, slave who was living in Upstate New York at the time of slavery in New York, Calvert Vaux, the famous landscape artist of Central and Prospect Park fame, who also designed many homes and buildings, Emily Chadbourne, the art collector, philanthropist and socialite. To round off the cast there was Rachel Hasbrouck, the landowners and Father Devine, a spiritual leader of the 1930’s.
The Cemetery Walk at the Old Dutch Church in Kingston, NY
We spent about fifteen minutes with each character and than would hear the cow bell and move onto the next character. It is a lot of walking around a cemetery in the dark and a few people could not handle it.
The graveyard is scary but inviting at night
The only problem with the event was that the actors took it upon themselves to relate their characters to modern times and what is going on in the world today and I did not take a tour to hear their political views. That put a damper on the evening. They are supposed to stay in the era their character was born into. The tour covered three centuries of residents of Kingston, NY.
The graveyard at night
Sinterklaas Fundraisers:
Take some time to come to the church during daylight hours and see the cemetery on your own time. It is very interesting and gives you a perspective on the role of the church from colonial to modern times.
I also had been up to the church many times for Sinterklaas fundraisers, where we were treated to Dutch “Sweets & Treats” along with a visit from Sinterklaas (Santa Claus). It was always a nice night of music and entertainment.
The Sinterklaas fundraiser “Sweets & Treats” used to be held at the Old Dutch Church in Kingston, NY.
During the recent “Snowflake Festival” in 2022, the church was the host to many groups of fiddlers. The whole church was decked out for the Christmas holidays. Both inside and outside the church was decorated for the Christmas holiday season. It was just gorgeous.
The front of the church during the Kingston Snowflake Festival in 2022
The Dutch Reformed Church’s Christmas tree was very traditional at the Snowflake Festival.
The fiddlers packed the church for the concert. It was nice to see the church during the Christmas holiday season which was decked out with traditional holiday decorations. The concerts were a lot of fun and the groups were excellent.
The fiddler groups entertained us that night
The History of the Old Dutch Church of Kingston, NY:
(from the church website)
The Front of the Old Dutch Church
Founded in 1659, the Old Dutch Church is often referred to as “Kingston’s Cathedral”. The present structure was designed by Minard LeFever and built in 1852. Architect Calvert Vaux said of this design, “I cannot change a thing without impairing the exquisite unity. It’s ideally perfect.”
The church and the cemetery
Organized in 1659:
*Sixth Oldest Reformed Church in North America.
The Old Dutch Church from the front
*Archives containing Baptism and Marriage Records dating back from 1660 to present.
*The Land on which the church stands was a gift from Peter Stuyvesant.
*Fifty Reformed Churches in the Hudson Valley, New Jersey and Pennsylvania trace their roots to Old Dutch Church, Kingston.
The War Memorial at the Old Dutch Church
*The ancient churchyard is the resting place of 1400 early settlers, including 77 Revolutionary War veterans and first New York Governor and two-time Vice-President, George Clinton.
The churchyard and the George Clinton grave
*Inside in the church: the magnificent Tiffany Window above the pulpit; bronze angels and the spectacular Moeller Organ.
*Visitation site of both Queen Juliana and Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands.
Tours and information talks given by Old Dutch Church guides are available by appointment.
Sunday Morning Worship: 10:30am
The inside of the church
The church during the recent ‘Kingston Snowflake Festival”
The Church during Christmas in 2024:
The church on a quiet evening during December 2024
The church decorated at Christmas time
The front of the church at night
*Disclaimer: this information was taken from the Old Dutch Church pamphlet. The church is the site of the annual fundraiser for the Sinterklaas festival every November. Please check out the Sinterklaas festival calendar every year for updates. The church cemetery is worth the visit alone with all the unique and historical people buried here.
*Bloggers Note: because of the size, location and time of year these sites are open, the hours and cost to get in can change since the blog was written. Please check with the site’s website or call the site before you visit. Things change over time.
My name is Justin Watrel and welcome to ‘VisitingaMuseum.com’, a trip through cultural sites, small unique museums, historic mansions and homes and pocket parks & community gardens in New York City and beyond its borders. I created this blog site to cross reference all the cultural sites that I came across when I was traveling through Manhattan for my walking blog, “MywalkinManhattan.com”.
Historic New Bridge Landing
I was inspired by all these sites that I had missed over the years and never knew existed in New York City and its suburbs. Many of these being in Bergen County, NJ where I live. I found that most people feel the same way. The only way you would know that these sites existed is by walking past them.
School House Museum in Ridgewood, New Jersey
So I created this site to showcase all these smaller, largely unexplored ‘gems’ in Manhattan, the rest of New York City and places outside the greater New York City area. I concentrate on smaller, more off beat cultural sites that you might miss in the tour books or may just find by passing them on the street. This has lead me to becoming a member of the Bergen County Historical Society in Riveredge, NJ as well as other cultural sites in the area.
The Aviation Museum in Teterboro, New Jersey
There is so many interesting historical sites, parks, gardens and homes to explore that I want to share it with all of you. They are tucked behind buildings and walls, locked behind gates or hidden behind trees only for you to want to discover them.
Ringwood Manor in Ringwood, New Jersey at Christmas
I want to give these smaller and unique ‘gems’ more exposure and ‘sing their praises’ to an audience (namely out of town tourists) who might overlook them. It is hard for a lot of these cultural site because of the lack of volunteers or volunteers getting older or the absence of money to properly advertise these sites.
Juan Leon’s work at Gallery Bergen on the Bergen Community College campus in Paramus, NJ
So join me in the extension of “MywalkinManhattan.com” with my new site “VisitingaMuseum.com” and share the adventure with me. Join me also on my sister blog sites, “DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com” and ‘LittleShoponMainStreet@Wordpress.com’ for restaurants and small shops.
The Dyckman Farm in Washington Heights in Manhattan
These sites featuring all sorts of small restaurants, bodegas and bakeries, where a quality meal can be had for $10.00 and under and unusual stores with unique merchandise that just stand out in their respective neighborhoods. It is important to support small business owners especially in this economy.
Lucy the Elephant in Margate, NJ
So, join me here as I take “MywalkinManhattan” to some unique and special historical sites and open spaces the New York Metropolitan area and beyond.
Visiting a Museum: The Unique, Unusual, Obscure and Historical 